It's rare that something quite as special as today's review comes along. From the Michelin-started chef Shaun Rankin comes Ormer Mayfair, sister restaurant to the iconic Ormer in Jersey. Despite being a Yorkshireman, Rankin set up shop in Jersey over 2013 years ago bringing exquisite and quintessentially British fare to the lucky diners. Now, Rankin is bringing that flare for all things British to another institution: Flemings Mayfair. The word 'luxury' doesn't quite cut it: this is a marriage made in culinary heaven.
I was extremely lucky to enjoy a sneak peek of the beautiful central London spot during their soft launch in August. The restaurant is located on the lower ground floor of the hotel and is as elegant as the surrounding spaces. Smooth leather seating, dark wood wall labelling and monochrome flooring all allude to a bygone Art Deco era. Subtle detailing of scallop shell light fixtures play reference to Ormer's island beginnings while highlights of red and gold offer an opulently finished look. Slide away to the bar after supper and relax in style with plush velvet sofas, rose gold and black lamps and a semi-private bar away from the main restaurant.
We began, of course, with a glass of sparkling English wine from Nytimber. Rankin is a champion of all things British and this award-winning wine recently took over from the French champagne as the world's best tipple. Take that Frenchies! I went for a classic white while my co-diner opted for a summery rosé. Both were delightful - not too fizzy but with enough tingle to awaken the taste buds. The chef also treated us to lobster brioche rolls with a refreshing fennel salad on top. The sweet flavours and soft textures were divine and although only small this was definitely a highlight dish.
My starter of lobster ravioli came surrounded by a fragrant lemongrass and lobster bisque. The chopped shallot salad on top added crunch and a touch of bitterness to contrast with the unbelievably sweet lobster. I would have liked a little more bisque but I guess this way the lobster stood out more. My co-diner enjoyed a vibrant plate of scallops with a herby jus, oyster jellies and crunchy shallots on top. The show-stopping dish really caught the eye and tasted truly of the sea. The scallops were bouncy and sweet.
For main, I chose a beautiful plate of sea bass in a potato and leek risotto that reminded me warmingly of my favourite soup. This savoury side of yumminess was complimented by slivers of smoked salmon, crisped quails eggs and foraged sea herbs. The two sides of the dish, though different in appearance and texture, worked so beautifully offering a wonderful taste of the sea and the land. Truly wonderful!
My co-diner chose the Iberco pork which is served separately in a silver dish which really allows you to inspect the pink meat and juicy exterior. The perfectly cooked, sweet meat was served alongside a warm salad of calamari, smoked paprika juice and crisped chorizo which again plays on the surf and turf concept and highlights Shaun's expertise with both seafood and land-based meats.
My dessert, finally, was absolutely incredible. Like literally amazing. Billed on the menu as a dark chocolate brownie, the dish is more of a set chocolate mousse with a chocolate delice on the top and softly crumbly bottom. If you love chocolate, this dish if for you. The accompaniments of popcorn, salt caramel and milk ice cream on a chocolate soil brought out the sweet and bitter notes of the 'brownie' and gave a lot of texture to the plate. I could have cried this was so good.
This visit was arranged privately. All opinions and images are my own.
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